a rhapsody in four courses
Rome, some time after 1930
I should have tales about the politics we speak,
recount how the Great Man sees Fascism’sfuture in the world but instead I recall how,
at first touch of silverware, the spatchcock meltsfrom the bone! How sublime the pasta – taglietelle
con sugo di porcini e crema. I have to taste thatfabulous infusion again (merest touch of tarragon?)
Benito is launched on a favourite theme – how hardthe Germans are, their total lack of gaiety or humour,
essentially barbarians still. Between mouthfulsI nod accord. I hope he doesn’t think me rude
for interrupting, asking if the palazzo chef mightfurnish me the recipe – I’m desperate
to add it to my files. Then filleto, processionallyfrom the kitchen. Maitre d’ at the head, cloched
silver salver aloft, next junior waiters in trainwith vegetables (austerity be damned – six separate
covered platters!). At the rear the largest silver gravy boatI’ve seen. It’s performance, as only Italians can,
theatre for an audience of two – Il Duce and me.The beef in all its glory is revealed, monarch of the meal.
A flourish and neat bow by the Maitre d’. He carvessucculent slices for our plates. The fineness of the meat
almost finishes me. I could drown in the deliciousdelicacy of the jus – butter, wine, caramelised filleto
juice, with perhaps a hint of stock. Semifreddofor dessert – creamy confection to roll around the tongue,
relish the welcome bite of raspberry. To cut the cream.
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