Excerpt from the Modern Woman’s Cookbook

1 August 2018

You can start any of these recipes in advance
by soaking your chosen fruit in liqueur
(tip: male fruit should not be peeled
and does not always need to be deseeded)
and by preparing the sweetbreads –
poach the sublingual glands in milk and honey,
tweaking the creamy sweetness to suit your tastes.

How you progress from here is up to you:
once stretched, drape the tendons on the bedposts to dry;
punch the air from the lungs and leave them to rise;
or hickory-glaze the ribs for charring (be prepared
to get this delicious sticky mess on your lips and thighs)

but I always begin with the skin,
scored and rubbed with oil and salt,
and then the flank, dusted in flour and browned
in a heavy-bottomed pot, sloshed with wine and stock
and simmered until the meat falls from the bones.

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