the day of consecration in Ayodhya
1
Today is the day of consecration in Ayodhya
that potent symbol of a new Indian warrior
nationalism that divides crowds into roaring
Rams and weeping Sufis bedraggled in ragsSome months earlier: everyday at work, I’d take
to reading Indian news, which began obscure
in a shroud of Delhi smog, but slowly the noise
subsided; in a dilapidated courtyard, we calmlylearnt about Dalits, Muslims, eunuchs. A pitter
patter of violence in my newsfeed, even after
the telecom bill. I visited in dry season, still
it was raining and we waited in the cool bar.The rain cleared. A local offered me the back
of his motorbike. We went to the next town,
the next, each with multiple glaring Modis
and at the train station, Modi selfie stations.On life went, I think – the walls of Delhi had been
torn down and reconstructed many times over.
Everyone from traders to invaders had become
Indian at last. Christ was Krishna, Persia Parsighantas rung with echoing adhans, all burning
the same incense, all tying rakhis from a single
spool. Men gathered in the night to sing ghazal,
each taking their turn: Hindi songs, Urdu songs,women in modesty wear clapping along, hands
twirling from front to back, keeping the time.
Eventually, even us foreigners were called up
to sing whatever song we might remember…In a yellow room thick with beards and sweet
smoke, I was told the lesser known history of
how the fabric of Calicut was cut, a time before
the Europeans. Land was parcelled out betweenevery trader who came by monsoon. Yemeni
mosques, Assyrian Orthodox churches, Chinese
and every other spice, dye, grain, root rested
on the heads of Big Bazaar road. Ornate trucksin the blistering speed of a palm-tree shoreline,
a Dutch house was converted by an offshore
project member of Google Street View, to serve
all black specialty coffee grown in the hills.Here I finished reading Attar’s Tales of the Saints:
a Sufi despairs when he tumbles down stairs
if only there’d been a few more steps, for every
injury was a kiss pressed upon him by God.I closed the old world in a book as I grew high on
caffeine, sneaking cigarettes in the dark passage
beside the cafe. There was no public smoking
in Kerala, just staring uncles and abrupt judgement.2
I see you come in, sunny scarf, chequered blue and
orange button-up searching the cafe’s bookshelves,
flipping through Márquez and Rumi. I’m saying to you
ohhh, so you’re into mystical poetry, magical realismYou’re saying to me, ohhh, so you’re spiritual. We sit
on the floor together. You tell me how Shiva contorted
the holy crowd’s judgement by transcending his form
uniting with Parvati, becoming half man, half womanIt’s twenty minutes – not even half an hour – before
you must leave. We just have to get coffee. Leaving me
with your contacts, I am shocked. I immediately write
a poem about you. Your first message is love heartsOur first date the next day there are butterflies
in the garden by the museum, couples on swings.
We start holding hands while trying to cross the road,
linking pinkies and then, maybe, something moreWalking through Pazhassiraja, cannonballs get bigger
as the years pass by. The tombs become more elaborate.
I notice you like to take photos of me, amongst the old
pieces of ceramic vessels. Then, you take me out to dinnerat the newly opened floor of Paragon. I’m not so graceful
eating biryani and fried fish with my hands, but I guess
you find it endearing. I watch with delight at how precise
your fingers press raita, papad and rice. Beside each otherwe wash our hands. You teach me to wash my mouth
after meals. We drink tap water back home I say
and you’re grossed out. I tell you so many little things,
you tell me you want to hear it all. You tell me about howyou never wanted to travel overseas, really. Everyone else
wants to leave to Canada or Dubai, but you’re more of
an Indian sanskari girl. Despite this, you tell me you’d like
to see where I live, just because I come from there,because it’s a part of me. You post a photo of me
with the words, my soul met yours today telling me,
I think… we are soul mates. I think so too. It is crazy
I am in India smoking Indie Mints (you smoke them)on my balcony thinking of you. Another midnight here,
I saw a large unidentified rodent in the foyer while
I was covered in ants. Now I am in love. You gifted
to me a trishula pendant, that symbol of the DestroyerI bought a chain for it to hang on my neck. Rubbing
the trident when I miss you, I call my mother
to check if I have lost my mind. I have not. I want
to turn my world upside down for you. As the sun setsagain and again over Calicut beach, we eat local food
you’ve never tried before: pazhampuri and beef.
I walk you down laneways you haven’t seen.
We are both the tourist, we are both the guide,we are equals. We are both stared at by the uncles
as we try to find somewhere to smoke in peace, walking
through a group of children looking for privacy, then
we are chased by angry dogs for stepping ontheir territory. Young boys start heckling me for
500 rupees. Something is being said in Malayalam
that you don’t know how to translate, making you feel
distressed. We hide at the back of the cafe holdinghands, a stumbling conversation giggling at language
breaking down. You are worried how others will see us,
how they judge me as a tourist and will tell your family
about our love. We decide on the code word language,which you say when you need me to pretend, to live
in this empire of secrets. We link pinkie fingers, barely
connected, and yet… Oh, and yet! We make so many
promises together! We are two mad women in love!Today is the day of consecration in Ayodhya. On Instagram,
a coworker of mine posts a video shouting Jai Sree Ram!
while another posts a celestial graphic of Ram captioned
If you’ve never had your country taken away from youyou wouldn’t understand this day. Both are vegetarians
living outside India, insisting that I am wrong to share a post
on how the nation is celebrating the destruction of a mosque.
We meet up and are both a little tense, upset that I am leaving
so we sit on the hotel rooftop, smoking again, a little jointwith some Indian reggae. The adhan calls, a Tricolour flag
bigger than our bodies pressed together waves in the sunset.
You whisper My India is something else… the moon sinks
into the sky, an adrift parasol, a cut kite, Shiva’s toenail…
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